4 Midsummer Eve Rants, 20/06/2017 Alnham

Notes from walking the four rants

I have made a previous post from this – here is my basic set of notes about my conduct of the Rants.

Up at 04:30, on site just before 06:00 and walking by about 06:20. Initial dismay whilst changing into my boots as I am being bitten by tiny black droplets of insects and I have no repellent. On with a beanie hat to give a physical barrier. Connect my kit, lock the car and set off only to find I have a marked creak from my rucksack. Unable to make it stop I walk back to the car and swap to a smaller, frameless rucksack that I have tried out the weekend before. It is slightly less comfy but silent.

The first leg is the Salter’s Way almost to the start of the open-access land then a hop over the fence to the ditch at the edge of the crop field. The path is heavily overgrown and wet with dew. I am, from the knees down, sodden.
There is a view over the upper Aln valley down to the Simonsides and across towards the coast. A gentle breeze and overcast sky (although this will clear). Pretty quiet with occasional birdsong and sheep.

uphill, crop field, hawthorn, dew-wet grass, drystone wall

Rant 1 Step 1
Very still. The wind barely moving the grass heads as they poke up amongst the oats. Distant chaffinch, wood pigeon – coo coo cooo coo coo – trala lah trallooah. The conversation of the sheep – naaah naaah. Occasional passing of a fly. Two hawthorn hedges, several plantations, down to the valley, rolling fields. Distant wood, bottom edges of the trees shaved off, grazed away, a low-level ceiling before the roof of the trees takes over. Drystone wall, capstones cemented in place, dark grey of the stone obliterated by the pale green-grey of the lichen, occasionally yellow.

Rant 1 Step 1 to Step 2 – along the edge of farm and fell then up to the edge of a conifer plantation. The way passes along a line of very old mature trees – Oak, Hornbeam – presumably marking an old way on the Prendwick estate. The plantation is part of the Prendwick estate shooting activities, heavily fenced – head high plus electric fencing. Dark interiors, surprisingly few gamebirds in evidence. Here the view is lower with other plantations – Four Doors, Churchbrae, Southbraes. The main birds calling and flying are wood pigeons.

Rant 1 Step 2

conifers, fenced plantation, game bird pens, valley burn
Long view across to low cloud on the hills. Cooing of the wood pigeon. Low thrum of the wind through pines. Distant wakening of the farm. Quiet call of the crows.

Rant 1 Step 2 to Step 3, the single longest step down to the south of “the island”. Back down the slope and over the Prendwick Burn, before the rough pasture, slow climb to the Salter’s Road. Down the hill to the site of the mediaeval village and east to the road junction. Crossing directly over the road and then wading the nascent Aln. The field is running with ewes and their lambs, lots of bleating as they stop/start run back and forth. The track goes up a slow gentle hill through two gates and a stockyard. Further up the hill three hares run from the path into the field and disappear over a low rise. Carrying on there is a gate in the wall and then a sharp left turn to start tracing the edge of the large crop field. Skylarks are flying in and out of the crop; one is moving ahead of me sequentially perching on fence posts before it finally leaves. At least two are singing; small dark jewels suspended in the sky by the thread of their song. At the junction with the track the way is to the right and along for about 400 m before moving to the site in the field to the south.

Rant 1 Step 3 
water trough, skylarks, crops, tyre lanes, distant road

Rant 1 Step 3 to Step 4 – I walk down the hill, through the gate at the bottom of the Hawthorne hedge and on through the buildings Scrainwood Farm. Walking into the field I follow the tire tracks which are symmetrically etched across the field until I reach the next recording site. Here land is lower; I have crossed the watershed between the Aln and the Coquet, the fields are full of crops, the woods are full of thrushes singing.

Rant 1 Step 4 

thrush song, solid wheat, farm, road, fence

Quiet rustle of the heads of the wheat as they rock in unison in the wind. The monotonous cooing of the collared doves. Distant blackbird demonstrating flutey song. Background hum of insects, a low drone.

Rant 1 Step 4 to Rant 2 Step 1. With rant one complete the way now goes north along the road. The next site is in the middle of a crop field and inaccessible. Whilst I record at the nearest point I will not use the recording.

roadside, crop, house, swallows

Rant 2 Step 1

Rant 2 Step 1 to Step 2. Rant two continues back at the Salters Road, so the way is along the road and then taking a shortcut which goes directly through the site of the remains of Alnham Castle. Stepping across the river Aln and over the wall I walk back up the Salter’s way to the edge of the moorland, turn to the north-east and the next site is amongst the trees of the ancient Avenue.

Rant 2 Step 2
shelter, old trees, fence, edge

Rant 2 Step 2 to Step 3 – Turning back on myself I retrace my steps towards the top the Salter’s Road. This time I continue on and go over the top of the hill descending towards the valley of a stream that will eventually flow into the Scrainwood burn. My destination is 300 m into the field that contains a herd of cows with their calves, still small, and a single Charolaise bull. He shows no interest in me and the heifers have moved their calves away and stand at a safe distance watching me. I’m standing in the middle the blog and have made sure that move slowly, I know where my nearest escape routes are should either the heifers or the bull become overly interested.

Rant 2 Step 3

bog, slow, hill, larks
Freshening wind cooling against the exertions of the walk. Terratorial skylarks suspended by the thread of their song. Anxious heifers shepherding their calves around the field keeping them away from me. I make sure to move slowly so that I don’t startle them. They begin to feed again after I leave. The large bull stays on the ridge, utterly disinterested. More intent on keeping up with the small group of heifers than he is engaging with me.

Rant 2 Step 3 to Step 4. I climb out of the field and retrace my steps to the top of the Salters Road and then down the hill once more. The final site for Rant Two is back at the bottom of the island. In fact it is on the southern limit. The way takes me back over the site of the castle, onto the road, across the watershed once more and down to Scrainwood farm going southeast at Scrainwood and down a track following the path of the Scrainwood Burn I reach a point close to the site which is inaccessible in a field of flax.
(I record as close as I can. The recorder battery goes flat and I have to return to the car and come back with a fresh supply of batteries – 2 ½ miles I didn’t need to walk.)

Rant 2 Step 4

flax, gate, dense grown, river valley

Rant 2 Step 4 to Rant 3 Step 1. This start for Rant 3 is very close – through the gate up to a gap in the hawthorn hedge where I follow a vague track through the shrubbery and stand on the soil of the field.

Rant 3 Step 1
hawthorn hedge, scrainwood farm, crop cover, partridge

The umbels of cow parsley starting to rise and spread above the nettles; sweet cicely going over. Distant crows. The fluctuating, undulating hum of insect pollinators as they go about their work.

Rant 3 Step 1 to Rant 3 Step 2 – up by Castle Hill and so the walk goes back through the farm, then follows the burn up to Hazleton Rig, through Hazleton rig Plantation across to Castle Hill and on into a hay meadow to the north east. The plantation is cool and quiet; sound is dampened by the close pine trees and the moist earth. I have to pick my way through an obstructed track for the second half the plantation walk.

Rant 3 Step 2
grass meadow, clover, sheep, mowing hay

Rant 3 Step 3 is back over the Prendwick Burn. I can cross country walk through the gap between Pennylaw’s South and Pennylaw’s North plantations to the top of the Salters Road. I retrace my steps along the ancient line of trees, cross the Prendwick burn and walked diagonally over the field to the edge of the plantation.

Rant 3 Step 3
plantation, pheasant, wood pigeon, close trees

Rant 3 Step 4 is back by the site of the ancient mediaeval village so I am once again retracing my steps to the top of the Salters Road down the hill. Turning right over the cattle grid to the roadside site. Another herd of cattle is loose in the field and again they move slowly away from me.

Rant 3 Step 4
downhill, road, cows, stream

Rant 4 – the way is straight up the hill, ignoring the road, heading for Castle Hill. Through the gate and across the field I reach the site.

Rant 4 Step 1
uphill, hairpin bends, ringing gate

Rant 4 Step 2 is in the middle of a field close to Prendwick Farm. I have not been able to get a view of this field and so don’t know if it will be a crop field and inaccessible to me. I take the slightly easier route along the road and get to the bottom of the field at the east end of Southbraes Plantation. It is a pasture field with flocks of shorn sheep and about 30 cows. I walk up the field to the site at the north end of it.

Rant 4 Step 2
grass, shearing, sheep, cows, avenue

Rant 4 Step 2 to Step 3 – The remaining two sites are very close together and back towards Castle Hill. From where I am the quickest route is north to a track that runs through the Prendwick Estate at the right angle bend I carry straight on and walk the southern margin of a wheat field to get back onto the Salter’s Road. From here I walk up to the top of Pennylaws South Plantation and then climb the wall to walk the rough pasture to the site to the west of Pennylaws North Plantation.

Rant 4 Step 3
rough pasture, trees

To reach the final site I skirt the top of Pennylaws North Plantation and walk towards the wall that is the west boundary of the Salter’s Road. The site is at the same level as the very first site but on rough pasture the site is easy to find.

Rant 4 Step 4
wall, hawthorn, boulder

I climbed the wall, step onto the Salters Road and for the last time walk down the hill.

Advertisements

4 Island Reels at Sound+Environment, University of Hull, July 1st 2017

I was delighted to have a piece of work selected through peer review for the international Sound+Environment 2017 Conference at the University of Hull as part of Hull’s tenure as UK City of Culture.  These are my reflections on the overall experience.

Location: 4 Island Reels was installed in Ensemble Room 2. It was a good room, a decent size and good acoustic properties.  It took an hour to install it with two assistants and 30 minutes to take down.

Technicalities: The set up was a centrally placed table with the laptop and soundcard and four outward facing speakers set off from the tables’ corners.  Outward facing speakers, denying a listener a single spot to listen was an unusual set up, and one that seemed to confuse some listeners.

The work lasted 20 minutes and ran three times each hour on a continuous loop.  In general, it ran OK but there is a problem with something in the setup causing momentary drop out of the sound producing an intrusive ‘click’ (I am looking into what causes this; possibly buffering).

Aesthetics: The piece worked, and looked and sounded, as I wished it to.

On reflection, the place of walking in the method and the walk (and thus sense of movement) is not sufficiently apparent and I will seek to change this in any subsequent works using the same method.  However, some of the decisions about the balance of the various parts was driven by the organisers requirement of a shorter (15-20 minute) piece.  My ideal installation of this piece would be quite a bit longer.

Attendance and audience engagement with the piece: Twenty five members of the conference came through the room, plus five of the student helpers who were keen to hear the work.  This was a disappointingly low number given that there were about 120 people registered at the conference.  A major reason was that the work was scheduled for Saturday and in the morning there were parallel paper sessions and the afternoon was given over to works in Hull city centre and so, once the papers finished, most people left the venue without coming to the installations.

Of those who came to listen most stayed for about half the piece.  Four people stayed for the whole work. I don’t know how many people ‘got’ the underlying idea of the piece; most people took a copy of the concertina-fold booklet; a few people read the poems.  Everyone who offered a view was positive about the work.

I didn’t get a sense that lots of people were moving from speaker to speaker listening for differences or similarities.  However, people did have to walk around the room which was the idea behind the setup.

A couple of conversations with people about the piece prompted some new ideas for things I could do.

Overall it was a good experience.

Northumbrian Rants: Rant 4

Rant 4 Step 1

A relatively early start (on February 5th) so that I am at the first site shortly after sunup.  A large field of winter wheat and still, cold air.  It doesn’t seem to be overlooked by any habitation.  A walk along the road and then into the field over a broken gate.  Along the field edge then I walk into the field trying to step between the neatly drilled rows.  Distant Jackdaws.  Out along the same track as a trio of cyclists chat their way along the road.  Back over the gate, onto the road and back to the car.

frozen field

crows call

still air, cold, mist

 

Rant 4 Step 2

I park in a layby that, according to the road signs, is in Cumbria but the walk will be to the site on an edge of Northumberland.  Stepping uncertainly onto a disguised, uneven surface; I walk on heather, grass, wet, peat, step over fences; I drift off line to the south.  I put up a lot of Red Grouse from the heather moorland, flush a small flock of Golden Plover and am a little surprised to flush three separate Hares – I think of them as animals of lowland fields not upland moors.  My sense of distance seems all wrong; it seems so much further over rough moorland.  Eventually supress my instincts, trust my technology and attain High Green Hill (which, paradoxically, is brown).  I record in the windy, grouse punctuated solitude and then walk out along a bearing straight towards the car –12 minutes faster than the walk in.

disorientating

hard walking, no rhythm

stop, start, back, forth

grouse

rounded hillsides

wide sky, sunlight, gaps in cloud

solitude

 

Rant 4 Step 3

I am surprised that the sat. nav. can get me right to the site.  I drive past a farm and, though she waves a friendly greeting, the farmer’s wife, in the guise of walking her dog from her car, still comes after me.  She watches from a distance and then drives up to check what I am doing – I didn’t like to say “waiting for you to go away”.  After a pleasant enough conversation, she drives off back to the farm.  Next to a tank turning circle and with a ruined shell of a tank (surprisingly inconspicuous) on the nearby fell, it is an odd place.  Not much moves and not much calls.  There is no walk in or walk out as it is a roadside site; as the farmer’s wife explained, off road equals risk of death.  So … it’s all very simple.  I complete the recoding and move on.

quiet

remote

flat horizon, grey cloud

roadside fences

tracks

grass moorland

wrecked tank

 

Rant 4 Step 4

Since the map was drawn, forest ‘harvesting’ has changed the landscape.  Despite this the site is still about a further 20 metres into an impenetrable conifer plantation.  The track is fine but the road edge clearing is typical forestry underfoot with lumps, ridges and troughs apparently designed to trip even the wariest walker.  The wind sighs through the trees.  It may still be trying to rain but tucked inside the shelter of the conifers nothing gets anywhere near me.  I record, walk out and I am done.

cocooned in trees

sound deadened

vista of trees

dreadful underfoot

 

Northumbrian Rants: Rant 3

Rant 3 is done (Sunday 29th January) with my friend Jeremy Grimshaw who is responsible for a lot of my Cagean input.

Rant 3 Step 1

A long drive to the Tweed valley, sequential turns onto diminishing roads gets us to the site, accessed through a gate that would be a sea of mud if the temperature was above freezing.  As it is we just walk over the frozen top.  The site is along the hedge line and is easy to access.  The hawthorn hedge is thick with yellow lichen.  Crops to the north and stubble to the south.  I am not surprised to hear Skylarks calling but am surprised when, having chased each other around for a bit, one of them launches into a song flight.

sunny, quiet wind

along field edge

four Skylarks in the stubble field

crow over

couple of shotgun shots

one or two planes

lichen on hedge

 

Rant 3 Step 2

The site is accessed from a busy road and the way in is not clear; hedges, fences and no obvious access.  A map-marked track by small estate of bungalows isn’t there so I am walking the roadside hedge when I find a locked gate that I can easily climb.  Given my previous experiences with horses I am a little uneasy about stepping into and crossing the horse paddock but the two horses take no notice of us.  I step over the barbed wire fence and continue down the small valley until the path enters a bog – almost exactly at the site.  As we walk in, on the other side of the valley, three Roe deer slowly walk off over the brow of the hill.  A Wren moves amongst the sedge.  The road above is a dominating sonic presence and an almost constant backdrop to the scene.

difficult access

roadside, houses, gate, fence, rough field

in a dip down to the river

three roe deer

horse field

 

Rant 3 Step 3

At the end of an unremarkable single track road but within distance of a busy road, a golf course and an airport.  A small stream, a lot of suburban shrubbery and an amount of bird call – Chaffinch, Robin, Blackbird.  The site is in a stubble field accessed from a footpath along the margin.  I can just about hear voices and the swish of clubs from the nearby golf course; traffic on the main road but no noise from the overhead power lines.

end of road

stubble field

golf course

mud

power lines

telegraph lines

 

Rant 3 Step 4

We retrace some of our days ‘steps’ to the final site.  Roads to farms lead to the site.  Trees at the roadside, a shallow valley, a distant, ridge-top community and a closer farm, surrounding trees.  Access via a wooden gate into a grass field.  The belt of trees to the west of the site is providing shelter from what little wind there is.  There is no hedge or fence between ma and the farm but a former boundary line seems marked by a change in crop but the cattle seem to wander too and fro at will.  The whole area feels sheltered and still.

quiet

big wide sky, cloud at the edges

trees and fields

pheasants, cows, two horses

hills nudging over the skyline

low slanting sun etching sheep onto the fields

 

 

Northumbrian Rants: Rant 2

In general this (Friday 27th January) was a cold, still day.  On step 2 the temperature rose to 5C but the rest of the time it was 1C.  I still have the first recording of the day challenge of sorting the wires.  With their unique ability to knot themselves I have to re-establish the sequence in which I put things on – recorder, hat, pick up tripod – and take them off – place tripod down, take off hat, take off recorder.  To do otherwise is to risk having to disassemble the whole lot.

Rant 2 Step 1

Easy parking off a narrow country road.  A short distance from the A1.  A climb over a gate and a walk around the perimeter of the field of winter wheat to get to a final fence climb and the site at the edge of a field of lowland pasture.  I pass a small conifer plantation.  It doesn’t look like a convincing shelter belt and I am not sure what it is for.  Nonetheless, as I walked towards it a Roe Deer walks out before disappearing over a couple of barbed wire fences.  Close to the site and I can (just) step over a barbed wire fence into the grass pasture, close to the junction of two hedges.  With so little wind the traffic on the A1 is audible; the cold still air carries the sound as a distant low roar.  There is not much else to hear.  Walking out the gap and common usage path through the hedge is obvious so there is no need to scale the gate.

hands frozen, hurting

cold

flushed roe deer, hare, pheasant

cold mist sitting on the fields

branches skeletal against the sky, silhouettes

grass field

 

Rant 2 Step 2

I pass through a weather front on the way north so the temperature rises slightly and the sun shines.  Another lowland pasture with two flocks of sheep separated by a single strand electric fence.  The access point is on a minor road but the A1 is close by and I can see the traffic, so no surprise that it is audible.  A derelict circular stone tower that looks like a decapitated windmill and its demesne means that access is at the corner of the field where there is a combination of a broken gate and a severely chopped back hedge.  An initial scramble and a careful step over a perimeter electric fence before walking into the middle of the field.  A Pink-footed Goose flies off calling as does a solitary Curlew.  The sheep initially run back and forth a bit but then settled to continued grazing once I stop moving.  Much less misty.  Walking out is straight forward.

cold

long undulating cloud

outlined tree ridges away to the horizon

sheep, goose, curlew

grass pasture

electric fence

 

Rant 3 Step 3

Step three is on an old estate, now a wedding venue.  The road in is a dead end but the public footpath is marked and it is easy to pull off the road.  Park at the roadside amid bushes shading the road; lots of leaf litter crunching as I walk in.  The footpath runs along the field margin – though there is a retained margin there is no sign of a walked path.  Walking down the hill the lie of the land looks reasonable given the map and it takes me a little while to realise that three fields have been amalgamated into one and I have already passed one of my reference points.  Not wanting to walk into a closely planted winter wheat field I make the recordings at the closest point on the route of the public footpath.  There are a series of gunshots plus their echoes.  By the time I get back to the car my shoes are heavy with soil, clagged onto the soles and around the heel.  I kick off some and end up performing a bizarre stomping dance on the road in an attempt to dislodge the last bits.

frost hollow

winter wheat, cut up fields, lost margins

gunshots

pheasants

tracks – deer, heron

 

Rant 2 Step 4

A remote site that should have been accessible via a public footpath but the immediate vista is the aftermath of forestry clearing.  The trees have gone and two mechanical diggers work to clear the brash.  The finger post is at the start of the path but the stumps and churned up earth means that the footpath is no longer apparent.  After an attempt to follow its line for 20 metres of so I have fallen into a couple of trenches and I give up.  A forestry path looks like it will get me close and I walk along and up on a firm track that eventually turns into an ill-defined grass path.  At the edge of the plantation I scale a gate to walk onto open moorland.  I pick up a barely defined footpath and follow to a set of gateposts – all that remain of an old fence line.  I am still 500 metres short of the site but I estimate that getting there (and back) will take another 40 minutes given the terrain.  The sun is almost down and I don’t want to be walking back through the forest along tracks I don’t know in the dark.  I make the recording at the gateposts and turn around.  All the way I have been able to hear the sounds of the diggers.  By the time I walk back past them they are parked up for the day and are being re-fuelled.  One of the drivers doesn’t return my wave and his two terriers race down to the track to check me out.  When I get back to the car it is dark.

walk in longer, difficult

wind low

sound of forestry diggers carried most of the time

moor frozen

ran out of time

 

 

Northumbrian Rants: Rant 1

A delayed posting of a fieldtrip on December 3rd last year.  This was the first of four Northumbrian Rants – four sets of four field recordings using a process derived from John Cage’s ‘49 Waltzes for the Five Boroughs’ and detailed on my website describing the Fair Isle Reels version (https://mpefairislereels.wordpress.com).

Rant 1 Step 1 

At the first site I had expected the sounds to be the local hamlet and the distant main road so was a little surprised to find that the main sound was the tractor and hedge trimmer doing the seasonal work of neatening up the hedgerows.

windy

stiff gate

exposed field

sheep

sparse hawthorn hedge

improved grass

chimney smoke

valley bottom to moor top

 

Rant 1 Step 2

On to the second site – as I walked in to the bottom field and looked up towards the site up the hillside and the other side of a belt of trees I registered the fact that a horse started galloping off to the north.  Thinking no more of this I carried on and was about 400m into the field when the noise of galloping hooves became audible followed a few seconds later by the horse in full gallop heading for me.  There was nowhere I could get to before it would be with me so it was fortunate that the animal pulled up with about 50 metres to go and then proceeded to graze.  Still, I didn’t want to risk antagonising it so opted to make the recording on the road side of the field gate.

estate land

outbuildings

planted trees

shepherd

up the hill

on the edge of new ash planting

caledonian pine on the hill top

cows

sheep

 

Rant 1 Step 3

The third site was a root vegetable field just to the west of the east coast mainline.  As a rule I don’t walk into crop fields but here there was more than enough space to walk in and still avoid the crops.  A very short walk in but going through the patch of low brambles I still managed to trip and measure my length.  After that it was easy.

beet field

railway

wind turbines

fall on the way in

feels rather desolate

 

Rant 1 Step 4

The final site was across the county, just to the north of Hadrian’s Wall.  This was the longest walk in of the day and was across sheep pasture, still frozen even towards the end of the day.

upland farmland

tracks

shooting pond

light fading

low sun

fell along the wall into the stream

military road

kestrel

crows

ram in harness

 

Each of the sites has its own distant mechanical ‘roar’ – usually traffic and usually quite ill defined.  It is the sort of sound that normally gets filtered out as we concentrate on something else – the wanted versus the unwanted, sound versus noise.  However, listening to the recordings the sound is present – the microphones don’t filter and on playback the sounds that were filtered out on site become part of the subject of the recording.

Rievaulx: a sense of place

During a recent visit, I was forcibly reminded that Rievaulx and its surroundings have, for me, a strong sense of place; it generates in my thoughts words like ‘peaceful’, ‘tranquil’, ‘restful’ and I’d like to try and work out something of why this might be.  My recent visit was on a clear, crisp December morning.  The sun shone all day and whilst it was never anything other than cold the day was invigorating.  It being a week before Christmas meant that few people were around and the valley was quiet.  So, the conditions were conducive to my thoughts of peacefulness but I have been there before, in bad weather, when more people were around and the sense has still been there, so while context may have contributed to my sense of peacefulness on my recent visit, it doesn’t feel like the whole story.

Rievaulx is a hamlet of about 20 dwellings in Ryedale, a steep sided river valley on the south-west edge of the North York Moors.  It’s most striking feature is a ruined Cistercian monastery dating from the 12th century and closed in 1538 during Henry VIII’s suppression of the monasteries.  It would be possible to assume that a sense of tranquility was linked to its religious history or some sort of enduring spiritual presence.  Yet, the monastery hasn’t functioned for 400 years and during its 400 years of functioning, life would not have been easy, tranquil, or necessarily peaceful; Cistercians were noted for their austerity; on one occasion the monastery was sacked by Scots and on another the monks were badly afflicted by the plague.  After its closure it was the site of an iron foundry for a further 100 years until local supplies of timber for charcoal were exhausted.  So, whilst Abbot Aelfred wrote of Rievaulx’s peacefulness and tranquility, a ruin doesn’t automatically translate into a sense of peace.  Rievaulx’s abbey ruins became a destination of romantic travel in the 18th century and the then landowner created a valley top walk to the north of the abbey with specifically cleared lines of sight down to the ruins to facilitate its viewing.  So, the valley has been through periods of being a religious center, an industrial complex and a romantic ruin, but the current sense of place is about more than the abbey – the nearby ruined Cistercian abbey at Byland shares many of Rievaulx’s historic and architectural attributes but not its sense of place – what are Rievaulx’s other enduring dimensions of place?

When viewed from a number of standpoints, the valley with its constituent buildings have a sense of harmony – of materials, colour and scale.  With many of the extant buildings of the hamlet being part of the original abbey precinct there is harmony of materials with all the buildings built of various types of local sandstone (2012).  There is harmony of colour with the worn sandstone of the buildings sitting alongside the natural greens and browns of the valley bottom fields and hedgerows and the grey browns of the heavily wooded valley sides.  Finally, there is harmony of scale.  With the tallest building, the ruined abbey, tight up against the 70 meter high, near vertical, northern side of the valley and the smaller buildings at valley tree top level, nothing protrudes above the natural skyline – it feels as if the buildings are held within the landscape rather than dominating it.

Whilst Rievaulx is not isolated, with the busy market town of Helmsley only three miles away, the two roads in and out of the valley are narrow and steep and there is little invitation to casual through traffic.  Local traffic is relatively sparse and the overall effect of this is relatively low levels of traffic and other mechanical sound.  The absence of roads means that to explore the valley to any extent you need to walk.  Couple this human pace of movement with the low levels of mechanical noise and the shape of the valley and there is a sonic clarity within the valley.  The shape of the valley – steep sided and relatively narrow – lends something of an amphitheater effect to listening in the valley; Jackdaws flying over calling are easily heard.  Finally, the river, providing the sound of running water, whilst not widely audible, adds the slightly mesmeric sound of running water into the general soundscape.

Bur Rievaulx does not exist as an abstract idea and its ‘sense’ is a consequence of my interaction with the place.  All I have written so far is thinking about my current interactions with Rievaulx but a final dimension of Rievaulx is my personal history of association with the place.  I was introduced to Rievaulx as a child by my parents and it was a happy childhood destination that I then revisited as a young man.  It has a similar place in my wife’s family history and together we have visited it repeatedly.  So, what I have written has emerged from a lineage of experience of over 50 years.  No wonder articulating this is complex.

 

Rievaulx Abbey. Available at: http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/rievaulx-abbey/.

(2012) Strategic Stone Study: A Building Stone Atlas of North Yorkshire East and York: English Heritage.